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Cornwall

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© Lonely Planet Publications
218

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T H E N O R T H C OA S T 219

Orientation & Information

Cornwall
And gorse turns tawny orange, seen beside
Pale drifts of primroses cascading wide
To where the slate falls sheer into the tide.
Sir John Betjeman, Cornish Cliffs
Jutting out into the churning sea and cut off from south Devon by the broad River Tamar,
Cornwall (or Kernow, as its usually known around these shores) has always seen itself as a
nation apart from the rest of England – another country, not just another English county.
This slender sliver of land was one of the last great bastions of Celtic culture, and there’s no
doubt that there’s something different in the air this far west. It’s a place that mixes artistic
inspiration and natural majesty in equal measures: heather, gorse and wildflowers blanket
the craggy headlands; tiny fishing villages huddle in the lee of granite bluffs; cackling gulls
and kittiwakes cut ribbons across an open sky. Far from being a cultural boondocks, Cornwall
has recently garnered a reputation as one of Britain’s most creative corners, a place where
you can feed your brain, your appetite and your soul all at once: world-class museums and
groundbreaking greenhouses sit side-by-side with designer restaurants, hugger-mugger
pubs and surfers’ bars, and every twist and turn in the coast offers a fresh panorama of
postcard views.

detail on ways to get to and from the county
and p295 for countywide travel.
Cornwall 24 () Lively (and usually

Cornwall stretches from the River Tamar
and the granite hump of Dartmoor in the
east all the way to mainland England’s most
westerly point at Land’s End. The principal
administrative town, Truro, sits bang in the
middle of the county; to the north are the
lofty cliffs and surfing beaches of the north
coast, while the south coast is a gentler
landscape of fields, river estuaries and quiet
beaches. The main A30 road cuts through
the middle of the county, running roughly
parallel with the main-line railway between
London Paddington and Penzance; a second
major road (the A38) runs east from Plymouth across the Tamar Bridge and along
Cornwall’s southern edge. See p291 for more

heated) Cornwall discussion forum.

Cornwall Beach Guide (www.cornwallbeachguide
.co.uk) Online guide to the county’s finest sand.
Cornwall Online () A
community-based site with guides to accommodation,
walks, attractions, villages and activities.

THE NORTH COAS...
CORNWALL
CORNWALL
lonelyplanet.com THE NORTH COAST
And gorse turns tawny orange, seen beside
Pale drifts of primroses cascading wide
To where the slate falls sheer into the tide.
Sir John Betjeman, Cornish Cliffs
Jutting out into the churning sea and cut off from south Devon by the broad River Tamar,
Cornwall (or Kernow, as its usually known around these shores) has always seen itself as a
nation apart from the rest of England – another country, not just another English county.
This slender sliver of land was one of the last great bastions of Celtic culture, and there’s no
doubt that there’s something different in the air this far west. It’s a place that mixes artistic
inspiration and natural majesty in equal measures: heather, gorse and wildflowers blanket
the craggy headlands; tiny fishing villages huddle in the lee of granite bluffs; cackling gulls
and kittiwakes cut ribbons across an open sky. Far from being a cultural boondocks, Cornwall
has recently garnered a reputation as one of Britain’s most creative corners, a place where
you can feed your brain, your appetite and your soul all at once: world-class museums and
groundbreaking greenhouses sit side-by-side with designer restaurants, hugger-mugger
pubs and surfers’ bars, and every twist and turn in the coast offers a fresh panorama of
postcard views.
With so much scenic splendour, it’s hardly surprising that Cornwall is also one of the nation’s
favourite getaways, and on sunny summer days it can seem like half of Britain is jostling for
that last patch of unclaimed sand. Better to visit during the quieter shoulder months, or most
atmospheric of all, during the roaring surf and bitter winds of Cornwall’s feral winter.
C o r n w a l l
Orientation & Information
Cornwall stretches from the River Tamar
and the granite hump of Dartmoor in the
east all the way to mainland England’s most
westerly point at Land’s End. The principal
administrative town, Truro, sits bang in the
middle of the county; to the north are the
lofty cliffs and surfing beaches of the north
coast, while the south coast is a gentler
landscape of fields, river estuaries and quiet
beaches. The main A30 road cuts through
the middle of the county, running roughly
parallel with the main-line railway between
London Paddington and Penzance; a second
major road (the A38) runs east from Ply-
mouth across the Tamar Bridge and along
Cornwall’s southern edge. See p291
for more
detail on ways to get to and from the county
and p295
for countywide travel.
Cornwall 24 (www.cornwall24.co.uk) Lively (and usually
heated) Cornwall discussion forum.
Cornwall Beach Guide (www.cornwallbeachguide
.co.uk) Online guide to the county’s finest sand.
Cornwall Online (www.cornwall-online.co.uk) A
community-based site with guides to accommodation,
walks, attractions, villages and activities.
THE NORTH COAST
If it’s the classic Cornish combination of
lofty cliffs, sweeping bays and white-horse
surf you’re after, then make a beeline for the
north Cornwall coast. Battered by Atlantic
POPULATION: 501,267 ANNUAL HOURS OF SUNSHINE
ISLES OF SCILLY: 1500
PASTIES PRODUCED PER
WEEK: 3 million
HIGHLIGHTS
Watch a gig race or stroll the Abbey Gardens on the Isles of Scilly ( p253
)
Marvel at the architectural audacity of the Eden Project ( p268
)
Explore the spooky monuments and standing stones of
West Penwith ( p241
)
Play lord of the manor around the great estates of
Lanhydrock ( p275
) and Cotehele ( p277
)
Top the summit of Brown Willy ( p275
),
Cornwall’s highest point
Savour a pint at a creekside pub on the
River Helford ( p252
)
Eden Project
Lanhydrock
Cotehele
Brown Willy
Helford
Penwith
West
Scilly
Isles of
50ºN
Isles of Scilly
To Penzance
(38mi)
0 10 km
Tresco
Hugh
Town
St Martin’s
St Mary’s
Restormel Castle
Hartland
Abbey
Minack
Theatre
Land's
End
Lizard
Point
St
Agnes
Head
Roseland Peninsula
Lanhydrock House
Trerice
Cotehele
Mount
Edgcumbe
Jamaica
Inn
Brown
Willy
Rough
Tor
Heligan
Trelissick
Garden
Eden
Project
Newbridge
St Mawes
Porthcurno
St Keverne
Treen
Calstock
Westward Ho!
Tintagel
Penryn
Par
St Agnes
Torpoint
Lydford
Cadgwith
Kilkhampton
Stratton
Helford
Camelford
Porthleven
Looe
Padstow
Henfort
St
Buryan
Milton
Abbot
Boscastle
Great Torrington
Portloe
Port Isaac
Portreath
Zennor
Coverack
Clovelly
Davidstow
Fowey
Callington
Charlestown
Veryan
Lopwell
Lostwithiel
Porthtowan
The Lizard
Bolventor
Polruan
Polperro
Bodinnick
Rock
Tregony
Holsworthy
Perranporth
St Austell
Bideford
Helston
Bodmin
Redruth
Truro
Camborne
Mousehole
Devonport
Saltash
Falmouth
St Ives
Launceston
Liskeard
Wadebridge
Bude
Tavistock
Newquay
Plymouth
Morvah
Penzance
Marazion
Mên-an-
Tol
Gwithian
& Godrevy
Towans
Bodmin
Moor
Bude
Bay
Constantine Bay
Falmouth Bay
St Austell
Bay
Whitesand
Bay
Mount's
Bay
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
To Isles of
Scilly (38mi)
DEVON
CORNWALL
T
a
m
a
r
A3075
A39
A30
0 20kms
0 10 miles
CORNWALL
A39
A388
A39
A30
A3072
A386
A395
A390
A390
A38
A30
A394
A3083
St Michael’s
Mount
Polzeath
Hayle
Caerhays Castle
Carrick
Roads
National Seal
Sanctuary
Roskilly’s Farm
Goonhilly
Earth
Station
Loe Pool
Widemouth
Bay
Crackington
Haven
Trebarwith Strand
Daymer Bay
Harlyn Bay
Chapel
Porth
Gunwalloe
Cove
Housel
Cove
Mullion
Watergate Bay
Bedruthan Steps
Treyarnon Bay
Mevagissey
Trebah & Glendurgan Gardens
Lantivet
Bay
Talland
Bay
Port
Quin
Newlyn
Kynance
Cove
Kennack
Sands
Gunwalloe
The Helford
Pandora
Inn
51ºN
5ºW
50ºN
© Lonely Planet Publications
218 219
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