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Thuringia

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C E N T R A L T H U R I N G I A • • E r f u r t 251

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Ὀ
ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Ὀ
ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ
ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Bad
Lauterberg

B27

LOWER
SAXONY

Göttingen

B243

A7

A38

Leinefelde

B80

Heiligenstadt

B249

Mühlhausen

B7

Today Thuringia is one of the most popular tourist destinations for hiking and cultural
tourism; it also offers many opportunities to combine both. Although its roads and trails are
well-trodden, and its cities were long ago sketched on the world cultural map, Thuringia
brings many unexpected rewards for visitors who put aside the map for a moment and
immerse themselves in the gentle momentum of slow travel.

B4

Luther’s hideout in Eisenach (p270)
„ Bizarre Beds Sleep in a former police lockBad Frankenhausen

up, or a 13th-century monastery, in Erfurt
(p256)
„ Views Take in the Kyffhäuser Monument and

Panorama Museum in Bad Frankenhausen
(p269)

Eisenach
Gotha

„ Hiking & Cycling Tackle a leg or two of the

Apolda

Weimar

„ Slow Travel Roll across meadows and

through forest on a country tram (p268)
from Gotha to beautiful Friedrichroda and
beyond
„ AREA:

Dornburg
Jena

Altenburg

B7

Tabarz
Gera
Waltershausen
Grosser Inselsberg
Friedrichroda
ver
(916m)
Arnstadt
B88
B85
TambachBrotterode
Ilm
Bad
B4
Dietharz
Salzungen
Schmalkalden Oberhof
A71 Rudolstadt
B281
Wernshausen
le
Saa
Thuringian
Forest Ilmenau
Pössneck
Zella-Mehlis
Saalfeld
B249
A9
Suhl
B19
Neustadt
Grosser
Meiningen
Beerberg
(982m)
Neuhaus
B90
Ernstthal
B281
BAVARIA
Renn
B89
Blankenstein
Hikin steig
Hildburghausen
g Trail

Fulda

A71

Sonneberg

Bad Neustadt

A7

B4

To Bamberg (40km);
Munich (265km)

Coburg

To Dresden
(80km)

A4

Meerane

Zwickau

Plauen

B85

BAVARIA

Kronach

A73

for full details.
If you’re driving, the area’s main arteries
are the east–west A4, which runs just south
of Erfurt and Weimar (linking Frankfurt and
Dresden), and the north–south B4, which
skirts Erfurt before heading into the heart
of the Thuringian Forest on its way south to
Munich. The Berlin–Munich A9 cuts through
the eastern part of Thuringia.

Getting Around

Rennsteig (p273), Germany’s oldest and
most famous trail, by foot or on your bike
from Eisenach

„ POPULATION: 2.58 MILLION

Erfurt

Zeitz

Buchenwald

7090 for automated timetable information; )

and cutting-edge culture in Weimar (p258)
„ Escapism Tour Wartburg Castle, Martin

SAXONY

Naumburg

B7 Weimar
A4

Getting There & Away

„ Culture Experience the finest of both classic

A14

Sömmerda

Thuringia’s main cities, E...
THURINGIA
THURINGIA
CENTRAL THURINGIA •• Erfurt lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com CENTRAL THURINGIA •• Erfurt
diagonally across the street is the Collegium
Majus (19), the site of the main building of
Erfurt’s venerable university. The university
itself (founded in 1392, closed in 1816 and
reopened in 1994) was so influential that even
Luther referred to it as: ‘my mother to which
I owe everything’.
Go north along Michaelisstrasse, then
turn right onto Augustinerstrasse to the Au-
gustinerkloster (20; p254 ). From the monas-
tery, continue along Augustinerstrasse and
turn right into Kirchgasse, which leads into
Gotthardstrasse and runs south to the me-
dieval Krämerbrücke (21; see p254 ). A short
detour takes you to the Begegnungsstätte
Kleine Synagoge (22;
%
655 1660; An der Stadtmünze
4/5;
h
11am-6pm Tue-Sun) a cultural and educa-
tional facility focusing on Jewish tradition and
history. This classical building was Erfurt’s
synagogue from 1840 to 1884. The basement
has an exhibit on Jews in Erfurt, as well as a
small mikve (ritual bath).
Head back to the western end of Krämer-
brücke and walk down Marktstrasse to Fis-
chmarkt, the medieval market square with a
gilded statue of a Roman warrior at its centre.
It’s flanked by several noteworthy buildings, in-
cluding the Haus zum Breiten Herd (23) from 1584,
with a rich Renaissance façade and a frieze
depicting the five human senses; this theme
continues with the four virtues on the adjacent
Gildehaus (24) built in 1892. Look for the Haus
zum Roten Ochsen (25), a Renaissance gem from
1562, which now houses the art museum Kun-
sthalle Erfurt (see p254 ). The neo-Gothic Rathaus
(26;
h
8am-6pm Mon, Tue & Thu, to 4pm Wed, to 2pm Fri,
10am-5pm Sat & Sun), built 1870–75, has a series of
interior murals depicting scenes from Luther’s
life, as well as the Tannhäuser and Faust leg-
ends. On the 3rd floor is an extravagant festival
hall. The walking tour ends here.
Tours
The tourist office offers two-hour walking tours
(adult/concession €5.50/3;
h
1pm Mon-Fri Apr-Dec, 11am &
1pm Sat & Sun year-round)
of the Altstadt and Peters-
berg, as well as other tours on themes such as
architecture or Martin Luther in Erfurt.
Sleeping
BUDGET
The tourist office can book private rooms
(
%
664 0110) from about €20 per person; there’s
lots of choice and some surprisingly central
options.
Ferienpark Stausee Hohenfelden
(
%
036450-420
81; www.hohenfelden.de; Hohenfelden; adult/child €5.50/3.50,
car/tent €2/2.50) You can swim in the lake in
summer at this large, modern camp site about
15km south of Erfurt in the pretty Ilmtal. Take
bus 155 to Hohenfelden Stausee.
DJH hostel
(
%
562 6705; jh-erfurt@djh-thueringen.de;
Hochheimer Strasse 12; under 26/over 26 €17/20;
pni
)
Erfurt’s comfortable DJH Jugendherberge is
nestled among villas about 2km from the city
centre (take tram 5 to Steigerstrasse).
Re_4Hostel
(
%
6000 110; www.re4hostel.de; Pushkin-
strasse 21; dm €12-15, d €50;
pni
)
If you’ve ever
spent a night in a police lock-up, maybe this
isn’t your thing; rooms in this former police
station range from hotel-like twins to hostel-
like dorms. Bedding and towels cost extra.
Room 13 has a chilling surprise.
Pension Reuss
(
%
731 0344; www.pension-reuss.de;
Spittelgartenstrasse 15; s €27, d €42-50;
p
) This pen-
sion north of the centre is good value, with
comfy rooms – some with cooking facilities –
and a back garden to sooth eyes and soul.
MIDRANGE
Augustinerkloster
(
%
576 600; www.augustinerkloster
.de; Augustinerstrasse 10; s/d €45/76;
pn
)
The nicest
twins and singles here are in the main mon-
astery building (there’s also a Renaissance-
Hof section), with views over the wonderful
cloister. All guests have access to this tranquil
sanctuary.
Hotel Grenzenlos
(
%
6013 2600; www.behindertenver
band-erfurt.de; Jonny-Schehr-Strasse 12; s €45, d €70;
pn
)
Close to the centre and catering especially for
physically disabled (it’s also deaf- and blind-
friendly), this small hotel is comfortable and
has easy wheelchair access.
Hotel Ibis
(
%
664 10; www.ibis.com; Barfüsserstrasse
9; r €59;
pn
) This chain hotel opposite the
Barfüsserkirche offers rooms that are small
and no-frills, but they serve their purpose
admirably.
Hotel & Gasthof Nikolai
(
%
5981 7119; www.hotel
-nikolai-erfurt.com; Augustinerstrasse 30; s €69-75, d €84-
110;
pn
) The location alongside the river,
the overall high standard of rooms, and the
friendly owners make this a prime choice,
even if some rooms are small.
Hotel am Kaisersaal (
%
658 560; info@hotel
-am-kaisersaal.de; Futterstrasse 8; s €74-98, d €101-117;
pn
) Rooms are tip-top and appointed with
all the necessaries in this highly-rated hotel.
Request a room to the yard, though, if street
noise disturbs.
Sorat Hotel (
%
674 00; erfurt@sorat-hotels.com;
Gotthardtstrasse 27; s €60-142, d €80-162;
pna
)
Sorat has two buildings, one an annex on the
historic Krämerbrücke with cheaper rooms.
All rooms have a designer edge, and it’s a
wonderful location on the willow-fringed arm
of the Gera River.
Hotel Zumnorde
(
%
568 00; www.hotel-zumnorde
.de; Anger 50/51; s €100-130, d €120-150, ste €180-250;
pna
) The rooms and suites are modern,
quite large and avoid decoration-overload in
this fine hotel in the centre. There’s a pretty
garden, with a view to the neighbouring shoe
shop, and a good restaurant here. Enter from
Weitergasse.
TOP END
Grand Hotel am Dom (
%
644 50; www.grand-hotel
-am-dom.de; Theaterplatz 2; s €125-140, d €135-150, ste
€230-560;
pna
)
Slick, central and sparkling
with five stars, ‘the Grand’ is designed so
rooms either have windows facing the foyers,
or windows looking to the world, so it’s best
to state your preference when booking. All are
tastefully appointed in subdued light-browns,
and there’s a whirlpool in the Zen-inspired
wellness area.
Eating
TRADITIONAL
Zum Goldenen Schwann (
%
2623 742; Michaelisstrasse
9; mains €5-12.50;
h
10am-midnight)
It’s not so much
the unpretentious traditional food that makes
this place popular locally, rather the highly-
rated unfiltered boutique beer.
Zwiesel (
%
7897 207; Michaelisstrasse 31; mains €5.50;
h
11am-1am Sun-Thu, 11am-2am Fri & Sat) If you’ve
just been cut out of the family will, take heart,
you can still afford to fill up here – virtually
everything costs the same in this relaxed stu-
dent classic.
Erfurter Brauhaus
(
%
562 5827; Anger 21; mains €7-
12; 11.30am-midnight Mon-Sat, noon-10pm Sun) As well
as tasty square meals, we found the ubiquitous
Three Wise Men of German boutique brewing
here: one pilsner, one wheat beer and one dark
beer. The fourth, the Märzbier (a blended pil-
sner and dark beer), must be popular because
it had run out on the day.
Haus Zur Pfauen (
%
211 5244; Marbacher Gasse 12-13;
mains €7-10;
h
10am-1am) This jack-of-all-trades
wears tradition on its sleeve – it’s a restaurant,
has its own microbrewery (a dark beer and a
pilsner), its own pension (upstairs), and its
own beer garden; it even does city tours.
INTERNATIONAL
Il Mulino
(
%
561 7069; Lange Brücke 37a; mains €7-17;
h
11am-midnight) On a warm day or night the
riverside setting and garden seating are a treat
in this Italian restaurant – the menu could do
with an abridged edition, though.
Alboth’s Restaurant (
%
568 8207; Futterstrasse 15-16;
4- to 7-course set menus €33-79;
h
from 6pm Tue-Sat) This
restaurant is a French-inspired port of call for
those seeking a serious gourmet plunge in the
region. The Lutherkeller (
%
568 8205; mains €7-15;
h
from 6pm Tue-Sat) theme-eatery downstairs is
a different kettle of fish – straw on the floor,
chirpy personnel and prices in German Thaler
(one-to-one exchange rate, they say). Each to
their own, both are excellent.
Si Ju
(
%
6552 295; www.si-ju-erfurt.de; Fischmarkt 1;
mains €7.50-20;
h
9am-late Mon-Sat, 10am-late Sun) The
name is a shocking word play on ‘see you’,
but this restaurant, café and lounge behind
the Rathaus (actually part of the building) is
a fashionable choice for diners and drinkers
of all ages. The mood swings according to
the time of day.
Vamos (
%
654 6765; Domstrasse 15; tapas & mains
€3-9.50;
h
10am-1am Sun-Thu, 10am-3am Fri & Sat) Veg-
etarians will find more than enough to fire
the palate in this lively Spanish restaurant
and bar.
Bombay (
%
5400 535; Domplatz 35; mains €9-17;
h
11.30am-midnight) Although the curries aren’t
hot and it sets its sights resolutely on the
tourist trade, this Indian eating house is very
decent, with lots of vegetarian dishes.
Don Camillo
(
%
219 2366; Michaelisstrasse 29; €8-17;
h
11am-2pm & 6pm-midnight Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun)
Highly recommended for its creative Medi-
terranean cuisine, Don Camillo has many
surprises up its sleeve – not least its interest-
ing wine list.
CAFÉS
Altstadt Café (
%
5626 473; www.erfurt-altstadtcafé
.de; Fischersand 1; snacks €2.50-6;
h
11am-11pm Mon-Fri,
noon-11pm Sat, 2-7pm Sun)
Enjoy a coffee, tea, alco-
holic drink or snack here, on an idyllic terrace
alongside a canal.
Henner (
%
654 6691; www.henner-sandwiches.de;
Weitergasse 8; sandwiches from €2.50;
h
9am-8pm Mon-
Fri, 9am-5pm Sat) This stylish sandwich bar has
sleek orange colours and delicious food.
Dr inking
Erfurt’s former university quarter, the
Andreasviertel, is a hub of nightspots, pubs
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com
256 257
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